Cold Air Intake - Make Your own:
The principle a
cold air intake is basically to simply bring cool air
from outside of the engine compartment and feed it
smoothly into the
throttle
body.
Most intakes also try to reduce on the restriction of
the factory paper filter by using other types of air
filter elements such as reticulated foam or oiled cotton
gauze cone shaped filters.
You can build
your own air intake kit at home from easily available
plumbing parts that (in my opinion) is at least 95% as
effective as a purchased unit. You can save some money
by building this yourself, but I wouldn't place that as
the primary reason for doing it~ This kit is 100%
reversible and I can revert to stock in about 15
minutes.
Total time to
build this should be less than 4 hours... Total cost
should be less than $75.00 (Using a genuine K&N 9"
Cone Filter). You can pick these parts up at Home
Depot.
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one length of 3" I.D. ABS Pipe (you only need about 7"
but I had to buy 10 feet!) |
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two 3" I.D. ABS 45 degree bend fittings (1 Male end, 1
Female end ) |
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one 3" I.D. ABS 22.5 degree bend fitting (female to
female) |
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one 3" I.D. ABS straight joining piece (don't know the
name for this... it is like a 5" piece of pipe) |
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one rubber 3" coupler with stainless band clamps (Actual
inside diameter of this about 3.7" but it called a 3"
coupler)
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One grey PVC electrical conduit adaptor, size unknown (for
now)... This is for the Emissions Control Hose, I brought
the hose with me to the store to find a proper fitting
piece. Please note that you will need to remove the 90
degree elbow off of the end of the Emissions control where
is joins the factory airbox. You can remove the end of the
hose by simply pulling it out! DO NOT CUT OR MODIFY THIS
HOSE as this would prevent you from returning to stock
in the future. |
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ABS pipe cement (get a small container you won't need
much, ABS cement is extremely volatile, read the
cautions and heed them!) |
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You will also need an air filter, I used a 9" K&N
cone filter I literally had 'laying around the garage'.
There is no reason you cannot tailor this project to use
whatever your favorite filter is... If you build your intake
like mine, with a 'female' joint for the air filter you will
need a 4" I.D. air filter to fit it properly. The filter I
used happened to be a 9" cone with a 4" opening part number
K&N RE-0870. |
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Other things you
will find useful...
- Epoxy Glue (5
minute epoxy is fine, JB Weld is better)
- Sandpaper,
multiple grits (I used 200 & 400 grit)
- Dremel Tool or
other rotary tool, also a hand file is useful for
shaping ABS
- Hacksaw
- Paint Marker in
a Light Color
- Phillips
Screwdriver
- Flat Head
Screwdriver
- 10mm Socket
- 13mm Socket
- Socket
Extension
- Ratchet
The steps for this
are basically the same as any other cold air intake for
the Golf. You remove the factory airbox, remove the
battery and the battery box. Finally you need to remove
the fresh air ducting from behind the headlight area and
(possibly, I did not) have to relocate some wiring. I
followed the instructions for the EVO Cold Air intake (which
is the one I would buy if I were purchasing a pre made
unit). |
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Remove the stock airbox, battery and battery surround. I
have removed the MAF for safety here
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This shows the hole we will exploit to get the filter down
low, behind the front bumper. |
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You will need to cut two pieces of ABS, one is 4" long and
other is 7". I cleaned the edges up with a Dremel
tool, then sanded them for a smoother transition. |
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The order of assembly is (from
Filter back)
- 45
degree with large (female) end towards filter
(towards ground!)
- ABS
straight joining female to female piece (don't
know the name for this... it is like a 5" piece of
pipe)
- 45
degree with large (female) end towards engine
-
Homemade ABS Male Coupler (4" long piece of pipe)
- 22.5
degree
- Longer
7" piece of ABS pipe (no picture)
- Rubber
Coupler
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Assemble the pipe pieces in place to get the angles correct.
This assembly is to test, measure and mark ONLY! A fitting
that's glued crooked can throw off the whole run and/or
won't fit properly with the next piece. Discover these
problems during the dry fit rather than after the pipe is
glued.
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Assemble the pieces in the above order and then
rotate the joints until a proper fit is achieved
(make sure you leave room for the battery!). A
proper fit should route the air DIRECTLY
into the MAF housing without any changes in
direction.
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After you are satisfied that everything is in the
right position during the test fit, get your Paint
Marker (I used Silver) and mark each joint so that a
line is drawn across the pipes where they join each
other.
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This picture shows what you are trying to achieve |
Also mark where the Emissions Control hose will join the
main 3" pipe so you can drill a hole there for the fitting.
Once everything is marked for
proper fit, disassemble and remove the pieces, noting which
go where... Prepare your glue and work with one piece at a
time since the glue works very quickly. Due to the fumes I
recommend gluing these pieces outdoors. To glue the pipe,
push the joints together with a twisting motion to spread
the glue. As you are twisting LINE UP THE MARKER LINES
YOU MADE IN THE PREVIOUS STEP. Hold the joints together
for a few seconds so they won't push apart while the
fast-drying glue sets
After a minute or
two of gluing you will have your intake assembled! If
you marked the spot for the Emissions Control hose now
is a good time to drill the hole for it. You want to
drill the hole SMALLER than the fitting you are going to
glue on since it sits on top of the pipe. I used a 1/2"
drill and then hand filed and sanded the hole inside and
out... |
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OPTIONAL STEP!
I chose to paint my intake with
some Matte Finish Enamel to try and match the other
underhood plastic pieces... it is matches very well now. |
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Clean your intake inside and out! Clean the INSIDE until it
is CLEAN!!! Make sure you haven't left any plastic bits or
plastic dust inside!!
Re-assemble the battery box and put
the battery back... hook everything up and admire your
work!! |
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Here I am installing my new Hella Micro DE lights and you
can see where the
filter is located behind the bumper. I have not touched this
filter since
install approximately 2500 miles ago. |